Ahhh Auckland, never has a city been subject to such polarized opinions! On one hand New Zealand’s city of sails is systematically voted in the top 10 most liveable cities in the world, but on the other hand you’d be forgiven for thinking it must be a horrible place to live when you hear many kiwis continually complaining about ridiculously long commuting times and increasingly unaffordable housing.
There’s an age old saying that New Zealand “stops at the Bombays”, the Bombays are an otherwise insignificant range of hills that separate Auckland and Northland from the rest of New Zealand. Born and bred Aucklanders like to think that everything south of the Bombay hills is rather rural and unsophisticated and kiwis from everywhere else generally view the big smoke as being a self-centred sprawling metropolis that is not really a reflection of true New Zealand. The irony of all of this is that love it or hate it many of us end up moving to the big smoke to further our career prospects or find work in our chosen field and as a result more than a third of our population now calls Auckland home.
As someone who was born in Napier on the east coast of the North Island, who grew up and went to University in the South Island but who recently lived in Auckland for over 3 years I like to think I have seen both sides of the story and formed a balanced opinion of Tamaki Makarau, as the city is known in Maori. I have experienced first-hand what it is like to sit in crawling traffic during rush hour on state highway 1 and to try and afford life once almost half my income goes to just paying my rent. But I’ve also had the opportunity to experience and appreciate the great things that multicultural Auckland has to offer, firstly as a slightly nervous newcomer and later as a seasoned local.
So if you’re looking to visit Auckland what should you put on your to do list? What are the unmissable places you absolutely must include in your itinerary? And finally what are the hidden gems that mostly only locals have heard of? Here’s an insiders pick of the best of the best that Auckland has to offer:
The Sky Tower allows great views over the city and standing on the reinforced glass windows staring down at the pavement certainly gets the heart pumping hundreds of meters below but if you’re looking to avoid paying for city views you may like to consider climbing one of the volcanoes instead. The Auckland War Memorial Museum is worth a visit, particularly the bottom floor which has some interesting displays about the region’s history. Kelly Tarlton’s is a decent aquarium, the revolving walkway through the shark tunnel is particularly funny (such shark stalkers!) Doing an Auckland Harbour Bridge climb or bungy jump is a fun experience if you have some extra moolah.
A visit to Auckland wouldn’t be complete without a short walk up one of our many extinct volcanic cones, these are scattered across the city and thanks to their importance to local Maori they have largely been saved from unsightly development and preserved as parks and reserves for all to enjoy. I would suggest visiting just one if you’re short on time or perhaps two if you’ve got more than 2 days available and are fairly active.
Mount Eden is the closest to the city centre, just a short bus ride from downtown, it features an impressive intact crater. Vehicle access to the top is now restricted but a short walk up the mount allows great views over the Hauraki Gulf and the central business district and across the Harbour Bridge to the North Shore.
One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie) in Cornwall Park is a bit of a more strenuous walk that gives a better view of wider Auckland city including both harbours and the Southern and Eastern suburbs. The obelisk at the top is a tribute to the Maori people and several trees have recently been planted with the hope that at least one will survive the harsh growing conditions to replace the original one tree that adorned the hill.
The last option worth considering, particularly if you don’t have access to a car is taking a 5 minute ferry across to the charming north shore suburb of Devonport for a walk up North Head. This hill features a network of old bunkers and tunnels dating back to 1885 and like the others allows some great views over the city.
– Islands of the Hauraki Gulf
Auckland is blessed with one of the world’s best maritime environments when it comes to recreational boating, fishing and wildlife watching. The Hauraki Gulf is sheltered from much of New Zealand’s harsher weather which largely comes from the west by the Waitakere Ranges and as such it harbours a range of marine life including whales and dolphins, its islands enjoy mild micro climates and its relatively calm waters are often ideal for sailing.
Rangitoto is without a doubt the most easily recognisable island with its distinct volcanic shape. It is the most recent volcano on the now dormant Auckland volcanic field to have erupted with the latest series of eruptions ending only 550 years ago. It is reached with a short ferry ride from the ferry terminals located downtown (at the end of Queen Street) and a half day walk to the top of the volcano affords beautiful views of the gulf and across to the city. I have yet to climb it myself but I’m told the hardened lava flows are impressive and it’s well worth a visit in December when the red pohutakawa trees are in full bloom.
Waiheke is another iconic island in the Gulf that boasts an impressive array of beaches, wineries and art galleries. Unlike Rangitoto it has a permanent population of over 8000 with another 3000 or so people who have holiday homes on the Island. Waiheke is one of my favourite day trips from Auckland, particularly for uncrowded beach time or a wine tour and I reckon its red varieties, especially its Syrah easily rival a Central Otago Pinot Noir any day.
Tiritiri Matangi, is an open nature sanctuary, originally stripped of almost all of its native forest extensive efforts have gone into replanting and pest eradication, the project has been so successful that there are now over 80 species of native birds on the island. It truly is a nature lover’s paradise, particularly for bird watchers but also for snorkellers in the summer. Day trips from Auckland depart at 9am and leave the island in the afternoon at 3.30pm, there are limited numbers so booking in advance is highly advised.
– Places to eat and drink
There are some nice places to eat and drink in the city centre such as Britomart, special mention goes to southern American inspired Orleans, Asian fusion Ebisu and Shaky Isles café, and Federal Street with culinary marvels such as the rotating Orbit at the top of the sky tower, as well as Depot and Federal Delicatessan with Poutine and dessert pies to die for. Down on the waterfront you have The Viaduct, though I tend to think the restaurants on the water’s edge are overrated and overpriced I do love diner style The Culpeper, and Japanese Industrie Zen has some seriously fun dishes. Then there’s the newly developed Wynyard Quarter, with its South American cuisine Miss Clawdy’s is a highlight and while a little pricey italian inspired Baduzzi do truly fantastic meatballs.
If you want to escape the tourists and dine out or drink with actual kiwis then you’re best to head to the suburbs on the city fringe like Parnell – the Chocolate Boutique café is destined for anyone with a sweet tooth and on a Saturday or Sunday morning La Cigale French market is just wafting with fine aromas. Mt Eden Village has a lot of great cafes including Circus circus and the Garden Shed and finally there’s Ponsonby Road. The tucked away Ponsonby Central is always buzzing, with its artisan food stores, cafes and restaurants it truly is a food lover’s paradise. I could seriously name them all but Bedford Bar has top notch craft beer, Dante’s does the best pizza in Auckland, Bird on a Wire do salads and chicken to die for, El Sizzling Chorizo have great Argentinian barbecue and Burger Burger have utterly perfected their burger game. Lastly just across the road is one of the most subtle bars in Auckland, Golden Dawn, reachable through an almost hidden entranceway in a brick wall, it has a small inside area and a larger courtyard. Their beer & wine selection is never-ending and there is almost always eclectic live music on offer.
As a general rule in the North Island the east coast beaches are more sheltered so they’re better for swimming whereas the west coast beaches are better for surfing.
On the eastern coast there are several regional parks with great golden beaches, the best being Tawharanui Peninsula. The nearby Goat Island marine reserve is one of the best snorkelling spots in NZ and the nearby Matakana village is worth a wander around, particularly in the weekend when the village market is in full swing with lots of great food and craft stores.) The aforementioned Waiheke Island also has many lovely beaches, Oneroa Bay is within walking distance of Oneroa village but it’s worth catching a bus to the 2.5km long Onetangi Beach which is probably the best swimming and sun bathing spot the island offers.
To the west of Auckland is the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park which makes for a great day trip with its lush native forest, beautiful waterfalls and numerous black sand beaches, Piha is the most well-known and a great surfing spot with some nice cafes and food trucks in summer, Muriwai is also popular with surfies and boasts a Gannet Colony. Finally Karekare and Bethell’s Beach (Te Henga) are a little more wild and untouched.
One of the great things about Auckland is that it is not a ‘one size fits all’ kind of place, there is something different for everyone. There is a huge a range of activities and experiences on offer whether you’re wanting shopping, sightseeing and nightlife or beach time, wine tasting and to stretch your legs in the great outdoors. So go ahead and take your pick!