Helsinki is a compact city set on a peninsula in the Gulf of Finland, amongst the Helsinki archipelago’s some 300 islands. The Finnish capital is easy to explore on foot and offers a combination of beautiful parks & islands, and a fascinating history. To top it off Helsinki showcases a huge range of classical architectural styles along with stunning modern design. It’s one of the breathtaking Nordic capital cities along with Copenhagen, Oslo, Reykjavik & Stockholm that seem to just seamlessly blend old & new.
When to go to Helsinki
Helsinki can be visited year round, though Spring, Summer & Autumn generally offer better weather & light for exploring than Winter (unless you’re off to see Lapland or the Northern Lights that is!) Average high temps are above 10°C from May to September though July is the only month where the average high is above 20°C. Spring (March-May) is the season with the least rain while summer days are languorously long, with the sun barely setting at all around the summer solstice in June. Conversely, from October to March temps are often on or well below 0°C, with average lows in February reaching -10°C or lower! Around the winter solstice in December it is light from 9am until 3pm only. However consequently during the festive season in the lead up to Christmas Helsinki really lights up. This is also a good time to see the city- with plenty of glögi (mulled wine) to go around! Finally it’s worth noting that while it does snow in Helsinki (often with the first snow falling in late December) there is no winter-long snow cover in Helsinki as there is in northern parts of Finland.
Getting to Helsinki
If you’re already in the region you can get to Helsinki by ferry from Stockholm, St Petersburg or Tallinn. From London you can fly direct to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport from London Heathrow with Finnair or from London Gatwick with Norwegian Air. Flights range from around £100 return with a flight time of approximately 3hrs each way- check out Skyscanner to find the best flight options for your dates. Once you reach Helsinki Airport the easiest way to get into the central city is by using the HSL Ring Rail Line. The train journey from the airport to the Central Railway Station via Tikkurila takes 27 minutes, or via Myyrmäki it’s 32 minutes. Trains operate every ten minutes in peak times or every 15 to 20 minutes at off peak times. To take the Ring Rail Line one way you would need to purchase a single fare for zones ABC which is currently priced at €4.60 per adult. Alternatively the 30 minute car trip into the city will cost you around €40 in an Uber.
Where & how long to stay in Helsinki
Seeing that Helsinki is a very walk-able city it’s worth staying somewhere nice & central. A studio or one bedroom apartment for two people on Airbnb usually costs around €60-100 a night. Alternatively dorm beds range from €20-40, check out Hostelworld for the best rated hostels. You need at least 2 days/1 night to make the most of Helsinki, but 2 nights are worthwhile if you prefer to take your time.
A short history of the Finnish Capital
It was the Kingdom of Sweden who founded the original town of Helsingfors back in 1550 but sadly the town largely languished under Swedish rule until the Russians started to exert their influence in the Baltics. This led to the Swedish building the sea fortress of Sveaborg from 1748 which is now a UNESCO world heritage site called Suomenlinna. Ultimately the Russian Empire took control of Helsinki in 1808 & then all of Finland in 1809, forming the Duchy of Finland and subsequently moving the capital of Finland from Turku to Helsinki (as it was closer to St Petersburg.) Helsinki flourished for most of the 19th century while Finland was a largely autonomous part of the Russian Empire. However growing discontent with the russification policy that was implemented at the tail end of the 19th century led to Finland claiming it’s independence in 1917 (at the same time as the Russian Revolution.) Today Helsinki is proudly Finnish but the Russian influence can still be seen in landmarks that remain such as the Uspenski Cathedral which is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe (shown below.)
What to see & do
Explore the Old Town
There’s no better way to soak up the huge range of architectural styles visible in Helsinki than by going for a good little stroll. It’s worth checking out the National Romantic Railway Station & the National Theatre that were built in the Art Nouveau style, as well as the beautiful Art Nouveau apartment buildings in nearby neighbourhoods such as Katajanokka, Kruunuhaka and Eira. You also certainly won’t be able to miss the neoclassical Helsinki Cathedral in Senate Square that dominates the city’s skyline (shown below.)
Take a Sauna
There’s no activity that is more quintessentially Finnish than indulging in a few hours of relaxation in a Sauna, often interspersed with dips in the icy Baltic sea or simply a cold swimming pool. Allas Sea Pool is the most popular spa complex in the city which is set above the market square and the Suomenlinna Ferry Terminal. But if it happens to be fully booked or if you’re just looking for something more intimate be sure to try out Uusi Sauna (the new Sauna.)
Take a half day trip to the Sea Fortress of Suomenlinna
This was my favourite part of our trip to Helsinki (besides maybe the sauna time!) The Suomenlinna Fortress (i.e. the ‘Castle of Finland’) is actually made up of a cluster of islands that are joint by short bridges. It’s a truly beautiful landscape with interesting features like cannons, tunnels, bunkers, a dockyard & a brewery. There is even a submarine docked on the main island that doubles as a museum! The ferry for Suomenlinna departs regularly from beside the market square & the Alas Sea Pool (shown above.) It takes just 15 minutes to reach the fortress and costs around €2 so it makes for a very affordable yet attractive half day or full day trip. You may like to take a picnic along with you but otherwise do try out some local Finnish food at the yummy cafes on the island.
Visit the Design District
Good design is a huge part of the Finnish psyche and Helsinki is the undisputed flagship of Finnish Design- having been named World Capital of Design in 2012 and with an ongoing Design Week held every year in September. The Design District is centred on the trendy downtown suburbs of Punavuori, Kaartinkaupunki, Kamppi and Ullanlinna. This part of the city is home to ateliers, museums, galleries, cafes and myriad boutiques with homewares, fashion, jewellery, accessories, vintage & antiques. The Design Museum is the perfect place to start to get an understanding of the major Finnish design influences from the past before you follow the trail (you can find a downloadable map & guide to all the retailers here.) If you’re short on time simply head straight to the highlight of the Design District – the centrally located Torikorttelit Complex which is located in the three oldest neoclassical blocks of Helsinki.
No doubt that’s more than enough to keep you busy on your mini break to Helsinki! I truly loved this city and know you will too. I can’t wait to go back to indulge in a Sauna and see more of the Design District sometime soon!
Xx Kiwi Globetrotteuse
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