When you’re an expat living in London it can be tempting to go to continental Europe all the time and to miss out on visiting the rest of the UK and Ireland. But there are so many great places to see in the British Isles too. In particular Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, really shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s such a great time that I’m on my second visit there this year alone! If you’re suitably convinced then here’s all you need to know to plan your first (or next) stay in Edinburgh!
How to get to Edinburgh
EasyJet probably offer the best value flights to Edinburgh from London Gatwick & London Stansted airports which are both accessible by train from central London. The flight time up to Edinburgh is only around 1h30 but you do need to factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and go through security, as well as the added cost of catching the train to the airport. However at the Edinburgh end the Edinburgh tram is a really convenient and affordable way to get into the city centre (the tram will also take you past Murrayfield aka the spiritual home of Scottish rugby!)
If you’re wanting a more eco-friendly travel solution with less queuing and less hassle the train from King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley is a good option. This route, known as the Flying Scotsman, is now run by London North Eastern Railway, you can generally buy tickets up to 3 months in advance on their website. Trains leave Kings Cross every half hour between 7am and 7pm and every hour outside of that. The train journey typically takes 4h20.
When to go to Edinburgh
Edinburgh is particularly vibrant during the summer festival season but you can comfortably visit year round. Winters up in Scotland are a bit nippy so do pack your warm things if you do decide to visit from October to May. On the other hand if you’re planning on a summer visit but are wanting to save on accommodation costs you may like to think about avoiding the month of August – this is the peak month of the summer festival season where 5 festivals run at the same time.
How long to stay in Edinburgh
Edinburgh’s compact size makes it great for a weekend trip or mini-break. You can comfortably see most of the highlights in 2 to 3 days. That’s not to say that Edinburgh doesn’t merit longer or won’t have you coming back for more! The city really does have so much on offer.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
If you’re happy to do a decent amount of walking Edinburgh can easily be explored on foot, so it’s worth paying the little bit of added expense to stay somewhere central. We’ve found 1 or 2 bedroom apartments on Airbnb for 3 to 4 people ranging from £100 to £150 per night in total. We’ve stayed in the West End and just off the Royal Mile (in the midst of the Old Town) and both locations worked really well. Stockbridge is another nice area to consider that is also reasonably close to the city centre. On the other hand if you’re looking for more budget style accommodation check out Hostelworld to find the best backpacker accommodation in the heart of the city.
What to do & where to explore in Edinburgh
Old Town & the Royal Mile
This is the heart of Edinburgh’s UNESCO world heritage area. There is a lot to do in the Old Town so you essentially need to allow a full day or more to adequately explore this a part of town. The Royal Mile is the main street running through the Old Town which links two royal residences. It is a ‘Scots Mile’ long (which, for the curious among us, means that it is 200m longer than the English mile at around 1.8km in total) At the top of the royal mile on Castle Rock sits Edinburgh Castle which houses the Scottish crown jewels and has impressive views over the city. The Edinburgh Military Tattoo is also held here on the Castle Esplanade each year.
If you head down the Royal Mile a little from the castle you can visit the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions or do the Scottish Whisky Experience. All down the mile and on most of the side streets you will come across lots of cute Scottish themed boutiques (shortbread or tartan scarves anyone?) There are also all different types of cafés & restaurants to suit your fancy, the Grassmarket area is a particularly nice place to grab some lunch.
Pro Tip: Want some real Scottish comfort food? Head to Makar’s Gourmet Mash Bar in either the Old Town or the West End
Further down the mile is the Museum of Childhood and if you’ve got some spare time on your hands in the afternoon other (free) museums in this area include the Writers Museum (think Robert Burns), the People’s Story Museum and the Museum of Edinburgh – to help you find the one that interests you the most head to the Edinburgh Museums & Galleries website.
Finally, down the lower end of the Royal Mile you’ll find the Scottish parliament building and the Palace of Holyroodhouse – which is now the Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Mary Queen of Scots and other famous monarchs lived in both Hollyroodhouse & Edinburgh Castle so if you’re interested in Scottish History it’s worth paying to visit at least one of them.
City Centre & Princes Street
Princes Street is Edinburgh’s main shopping street which runs parallel to the Royal Mile right next to Waverley train station. It houses all the major UK brands plus some of the biggest Scottish department stores. Along Princes Street you won’t miss the 5 star Balmoral Hotel with it’s iconic clock tower.
Another notable landmark is the imposing Scott Monument– a gothic style spire which is a tribute to author Sir Walter Scott. You can pay to climb the monument if you like but don’t feel obliged as there are many other great viewpoints over Edinburgh that won’t cost you a dime.
There are also quite a few worthwhile (and free) art galleries in this part of town- namely the City Art Centre, The Royal Scottish Academy and the Scottish National Gallery. You can find all the information about their collections and opening hours on the Edinburgh Museums & Galleries website. Finally if you’re needing a bit of fresh air after all that shopping or art gallery browsing simply head to the nearby Princes Street Gardens.
Viewpoints
In terms of getting some iconic photos of Edinburgh without breaking a sweat you can’t beat Calton Hill, at the eastern end of Princes Street. This reserve houses several important monuments and buildings including the National Monument and the City Observatory. It only takes around 10 minutes to climb up the hill but once you reach the top you might want to take some time to see the views from every side, as this is also a great vantage point over the Firth of Forth.
If you’re looking for a more intense walk and it’s a clear day put on some good walking shoes and pack a windproof layer and head up Arthur’s Seat. Arthur’s seat is an ancient volcano and the highest point in the 640 acre Hollyrood Park at around 250m up. Depending on what route you pick to reach the top it will take roughly 30 to 60 minutes, but do allow a few hours to fully enjoy the experience as you might like to check out Dunsapie Loch and the Salisbury Crags while you’re in the park.
Other Neighbourhoods to Explore
Depending on how much time you have available you can opt to branch out from the city centre & the old town to explore some hip neighbourhoods on the fringe of the City Centre. Leith is the old port area of Edinburgh further east of Calton Hill which has recently been redone. The Royal Yacht Britannia is now docked here and there are many stylish seaside restaurants & bars to check out as well.
At the northern edge of the Georgian ‘New Town’ (which stretches north from Princes Street as far as the Royal Botanic Gardens) you’ll find Stockbridge which has retained its original village feel and has a real bohemian vibe to it. Check out the Stockbridge market if you’re here on a Sunday. Further to the West you’ll reach Edinburgh’s West End which is a hub for independent retailers and unique eating and drinking establishments.
Festivals
Last but not least did you know that Edinburgh hosts an insane amount of world class festivals each year? Be sure to check out the festival calendar to see if anything is on while you’re in town. I know I’m already eyeing up another trip or two to Edinburgh for the Military Tattoo and the Fringe Festival!
Want to go to the Scottish Highlands and Glasgow too? Check out my guide to the ideal scotland self-drive itinerary
Travelling elsewhere in the UK/Ireland or Europe?